Sa Sardigna

Sa Sardigna as I like to call it as all the diversities of a Continent, millenniums of history left in this incredible island precious traditions, arts, lifestyles, languages, sounds and a territory that is different then any other region in Italy.

Sardinia is an Island in the middle of the Mediterranean sea far away from the rest of Italy here the traditions are so strong you can feel in the air, people does not have to pass by Sardinia to go anywhere and not all the streets take you to Sardinia (like the Romans will said for their city), but people come to this island because is different and the isolation from the rest of Europe make it a special place to visit and enjoy.

Imagine you arrive in Sardigna and while you come out of the plane the sea’s breeze the warm wind and the smell of the myrtle and rosemary kisses your face and Welcomes you wile a glass of fresh and crisp Vermentino is waiting for you a the bar.

You can stay in Sardigna and visit the many Sardignas (there are 7) each one very different from the other.

Let’s start with Il Cagliaritano (Sarrabus, Trexenta, Campidano) which is the area around Sardigna’s capitol Cagliari, here the flavors come from the sea, Cagliari surprises you with is architectonics, it dresses is city with stiles that come from far away (Phoenicians, Arabs, Romans and Spanish all pass from is streets), fish is the main ingredient in food, prepared in many different ways from simple grilled drizzled with the light olive oils from this area to more complicated versions like Sa Burrida (cat fish cooked in tomato sauce and vinegar, or in green sauce with garlic, fish liver and walnuts). There are also numerous recipes for malloreddus (small wheat gnocchi) different in size, color and taste because of the use of saffron and vegetables but almost always served alla campidanese (with tomato sauce, chopped sausage and grated pecorino). The wines here have funny and unusual names like, Nasco, Nuragus, Giro, Monica, Bovale, Cannonau, Malvasia and all taste fantastic with the traditional cuisine of the area.

West from here we arrive to the other region of the south; IL Sulcis-Inglesiente, one of the oldest geological areas in Europe and for centuries one of the most important area for minerals (coal and silver) in all the Mediterranean (Carbonia and Iglesias are the 2 main towns in the area the first gets is name from Carbone {coal/the land of coal mines} and the second gets is name from Iglesia {church/the town of many churches}). This is a land made of tough hard working people with big black eyes and a big hart where they kept the secrets of simple strong flavors from the land (the best Saffron and the best Carignano comes from this area) and the traditions that come from sea (particularly those from North Africa and Liguria).

From here going North on the coast and trough the valley of the Tirso we find L’Oristanese region where Bottarga di Muggine (Sardinian caviar; made with air dry gray mullet roe {the best comes from the village of Cabras}) and Vernaccia di Oristano (It is a dry wine which can be amber-yellow or golden yellow color depending on its age and reminds one of the best "Jerez" Sherry) are the King and the Queen of the area but is also the region where you can find great beef meat from the rare specie Sardo-Modicana and great Olive oils (considered some of the most flavorful of Italy).

Going East from here we arrive to the small and famous region of L’Ogliastra (here people must have the secret of life, in Ogliastra you can find some of the oldest peoples in the World), here it is easy to find the true and simple hospitality with flavors that come from simple recepies like Culurgionis (potato and mint filled ravioli served with a light tomato basil and pecorino sauce) some of the best cured meats, the greatest Pecorino cheese (if a Nobel prize for cheese will exist here will be the winner) and the rich and flavorful Cannonau growing in calcareous soil vineyard located between the mountains and the beautiful coast.

North from here we get in to the Real Sardigna Il Nuorese (Sarcidano, Barbagia, Mandrolisai) this is the region of the tallest mountains in Sardigna where the ancient traditions are pass from generation to generation, here the cuisine and the sounds of the shepherds (Tenores) reign sovereign. The style of cooking is simple; it follows the ritual of the seasons and the typical phrase of this area is Pane e Casu e Binu a Rasu (Bread Cheese and lots of Wine {you got the point}).

Just North from Il Nuorese you find La Gallura; you said Gallura and the first thing that comes to mind is the sea, granite, sugheretti (cork wood trees), wind and Jazz (Berchidda a small town inland has a great summer jazz festival {Paolo Fresu birthplace}) this are not only thing you find in this region but thy are a lifestyle. In this region you can find one of the most famous coastline in the world (Costa Smeralda) with great beaches and luxurious hotels or you can hit the road and visit the carateristc Stazzusu (from the Latin word Statio place where you stop or farm-houses) where the culture of sea is arrive just a few centuries ago, here the Suppa Cuatta (traditional soup made with bread, fresh tomatoes, basil, fresh Pecorino cheese and beef broth) is still the Queen of the tables and the Vermentino is the noble wine of the people.

Going west from here we get to our final destination my birthplace Il Sassarese (Anglona, Logudoro, Goceano) a calcareous land of gentles and rolling hills from the beautiful village of Castelsardo (dominated for years first by the Genovesi then by the Spaniard and last by the Savoia) famous for is Castle to the historical town of Sassari where is tradition to elevate to a sophisticated level the simplest ingredients like Le Monzette (delicious snails cooked in different ways) or the Li Pedi D’Agnoni (lamb’s foots boiled first and then cooked with onions, hot chili peppers, tomatoes and parsley), then west were the beauty of the Hispano-Catalan town of Alghero with is narrow street, the freshest of the seafood, is language, the Torbato and Cagnulari (traditional grapes from this region) and the beautiful coastline take you to unusual and generous places. (Welcome to Sardigna)

Spaghittus cun Bottarga (spaghetti with Bottarga)

Ingredients:

Bottarga

Olive Oil

Spaghetti

Salt

Garlic

Parsley

Preparation:

Boil a pan of water with a pinch of salt on it, when the water is boiling add the spaghetti,

While the pasta is cooking in another pan sauté the garlic and then remove it from the pan, remove the pan with the oil from the stove and stir in half of the Bottarga, when the pasta is cook drain the water and add to the pan with the oil and the bottarga, mix in the rest of the Bottarga and the parsley. (Eat immediately) Great with Nuragus

See you all in Sardigna Or at La Ciccia

Massimiliano Conti and Lorella Degan